Bologna is the culinary capital of Italy. In the city, one eats well and one eats a lot: among the city's various nicknames, Bologna la grassa seems the one that time and fashion have not erased.
Mortadella is Bolognese, cotoletta alla Bolognese is from here and the king of the table, tortellino in brodo, is a traditional Bolognese dish that is also protected and registered by the Dotta Confraternita del Tortellino. You will be spoilt for choice of goodness to try. But what and where to eat in Bologna? Here is a useful guide!
Best trattorias and osterias in Bologna
Osteria del Sole
Osteria Bottega
Fantoni al Pratello
Nonna Aurora
Osteria del nonno
Antica Trattoria della Gigina
Osteria dell'Orsa
TheOsteria del Sole, right in the centre near the towers, is Bologna's oldest historic osteria (since 1465), famous for its combination of mortadella and champagne and for the old bar where you can sip wine while talking about the world.
The Osteria Bottega is one of the staples of Bolognese gastronomy and even though there are many new proposals to try lately, it remains a must-visit osteria.
Among the best we still mention Fantoni al Pratello, which is the right choice if you want to find a compromise between quality, low prices and atmosphere (the typical one of the historical Bolognese osteria with the photos on the walls that tell the story).
Then there are Nonna Aurora (Bolognina area) and theOsteria dal Nonno (on the Bolognese hills) for an evening, or even better lunch, with a view of the city from above.
Eating in Bologna
But let's go in order. What do you eat in Bologna?
Tortellini in broth
The pasta made of eggs, water and flour is traditionally rolled out by hand. It must be thick, but not too thick, and porous. Inside is a minced filling of mortadella, nutmeg, loin meat in a mix and many variations of which every family knows the secret.
The broth is made from free-range capon and beef. Everything is enclosed in a special shape resembling a hat.
Mortadella
Mortadella: the history of mortadella is thousands of years old. It is the city's typical sausage, so much so that abroad it is often called Bologna. It is made from finely minced pork meat mixed with lard, all flavoured with special spices.
Schnitzel Bolognese style
Cotoletta alla Bolognese is a fairly elaborate dish. The slice of veal or chicken is breaded and fried in lard. It is then dipped in meat stock, covered with a slice of ham and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and baked in the oven.
Where to eat tortellini in Bologna
At Bottega Portici (1 Michelin star), tortellini bolognesi are cooked on sight and served take away in a thermal cup to eat at home or by train, since the restaurant is very close to the station (Via dell'Indipendenza, 69. Bologna. Tel. +39 0514218522).
Massimiliano Poggi has two restaurants serving classic tortellini in traditional broth for € 13
Da Oltre tortellini in capon broth have a special note in the filling, which focuses on the combination of pepper and nutmeg (16 € at Via Majani, 1. Bologna. Tel. +39 051 006 6049)
Trattoria Bertozzi is the place to go for plentiful tortellini for €14 served in a light, goliardic atmosphere (Via A. Costa 84/2. Bologna. Tel. +39 051 614 1425)
Franco Rossi is a historic restaurant in the centre whose speciality is tortellini in capon broth (14 € at Via Goito, 3. Bologna. Tel. +39 051 238818)
To eat Bolognese tortellini in the traditional way,Osteria Bottega remains an unmissable classic (Via Santa Caterina, 51. Bologna. Tel. +39 051 585111).
Eating out in Bologna on a budget
In Bologna you can choose from osterias serving traditional dishes, small restaurants that experiment, pleasant bistros and ethnic cuisine, but it is almost never easy to spend cheaply.
There are few classic osterias and trattorias in Bologna where you can spend very little and eat in abundance. There are, however, more or less expensive places and places where value for money is good.
Cheap restaurants in Bologna
At Le golosità di Nonna Aurora the cuisine is traditional, the portions are generous and the prices are honest. Finding a place is not always easy, so booking in advance is recommended.
Theancient trattoria della Gigina is a historic piece of Bologna where you can still eat very well and the prices are fair (around 30 euro per person).
At Fantoni 's in Via del Pratello you spend little and eat well (around 25 euro per person).
Osteria dell'Orsa is definitely the cheapest place to eat out in Bologna, not surprisingly popular with students, but the quality is not at the same level as the first two.
Tigelle and crescentine in Bologna
Tigelle and crescentine are a typical street food and snack, but also a dish to eat for lunch or dinner, perhaps in a restaurant in the countryside or in the hills of Bologna.
Ai Pini is a kiosk that makes perfect crescentine and tigelle.
Osteria dal Nonno (on the hills) serves local cured meats, sausages and cheeses with fantastic tigelle and crescentine. You can eat outdoors in the shade of the historic farmhouse with a view of the Bolognese hills.
Italy
Emilia Romagna
Bologna
