Having experienced street food from various corners of the globe, I can attest that Vancouver's food cart scene is a force to be reckoned with. Ranging from Istanbul's fiery doner kebabs to Bangkok's indulgent spiced duck bills, I've encountered a myriad of flavors and textures in my culinary adventures.
Before delving into Vancouver's street food haven, I sought guidance from my friend Paul Done, an unofficial authority on the city's gastronomic landscape. With a reputation as the unparalleled kingpin of Gastown, the trendiest neighborhood in central Vancouver, Paul's expertise promised an unforgettable outing.
In preparation for my gastronomic escapade, I sought respite at the hotel nestled in the heart of Granville Island. This vibrant neighborhood, once an industrial expanse, has now transformed into a culinary paradise. Its fresh produce market, brimming with irresistible food stalls, beckoned to my taste buds. Additionally, Granville Island boasts a plethora of artisans, including sausage-makers, microbrewers, and even a boutique sake maker, all ready to tantalize the senses.
With Vancouver's reputation for warmth and friendliness, I anticipated embracing the city's charming hospitality while exploring its diverse street food offerings. Whether immersing myself in the sizzling flavors of global cuisine or indulging in local delights, I was ready to embark on a culinary journey like no other.
Morning dawns and here's Paul, who forces my sake head and my sorry ass on to a push-bike. Vancouver, he explains, is very bike-friendly, with dedicated cycle lanes everywhere – even if the official mayor has made helmets obligatory. Paul fastens mine on extra-tight, just for laughs.
Boris bikes are made in Canada, and sturdy versions are an easy, cheap rent here – my hotel offers them for free. Cycling Vancouver's streets, parks and sea wall is a wonderful way to see this most beautiful of cities. With ocean on three sides, snowy mountains beyond, and a mild-ish, London-like climate, Vancouver seems to be inhabited by a race of attractive, big-boned Olympians who make winter sports cool and chilling in hepcat cocktail bars as obligatory as cycle safety measures. It is also home to a huge, established, thriving Asian population, who have had a wonderful effect on the way the city eats, as we'll see.
Until 2009, Vancouver's only legal street foods were roasted chestnuts, hotdogs and popcorn. Nice, but not lunch. Enlightenment dawned, and a panel was put together comprising two of the city's leading chefs, a nutritionist, a bloke who runs farmers' markets, a woman who understands fairtrade and sustainability, two local food bloggers and two members of the public, together with a couple of council faces. Together they identified suitable sites for food carts and invited proposals. They came up with a scheme whereby all carts are peer-auditioned, so you never get competing cuisines on neighbouring sites. Also, the authorities regularly inspect all prep kitchens – so no more sick jokes from me – and licence-holders have to reaudition every year, which keeps standards high.
Paul was right. Vancouver's street carts are the bomb. First, we breeze along to Japadog (japadog.com), where two nutty Japanese women serve ridiculously delicious fusion hot dogs. I eschew the Love Meat option, and plump for a spicy cheese terimayo: jalapeno and cheese dog, teriyaki sauce, mayo, nori seaweed. Six dollars, epic, genius, and nicely unweird.
Vancouver is an expensive city. The Canadian dollar is strong and there has been a hot influx of money from the Far East. Our next cart is great value in any language. Fresh Local Wild (freshlocalwild.com) is run by local celeb chef Josh Wolfe. Josh catches much of what he cooks, and custom-designed his state-of-the-art cart. The kitchen runs on recycled cooking oil; out back there's a cute veranda with seating. Cart cooking doesn't get any tastier than this. Paul orders pearly fresh halibut and chips plus homemade tartare sauce C$14 (£9), which I eat most of before tackling my own albacore tuna melt. The cart also has its own smoker, which issues steamed, then woodsmoked and grilled Sausages à Trois. What is it with these people?
A delicious sandwich filled with a succulent mix of pork and beef can be savored at Re-Up in Vancouver's vibrant street food scene.
Similar to how the telecom industry revolutionized communication, the restaurant industry is also embracing mobility. While sustainability has been a major focus in the culinary world, Vancouver goes a step further to emphasize the importance of accessibility. The city's street food not only rivals traditional restaurant fare but also offers a unique dining experience.
From high-end restaurateurs adapting to the changing market to enthusiastic cart owners exploring innovative food concepts, Vancouver's street food scene caters to diverse tastes. Though the cost of entry can be significant, around £32,000 for a certified prep kitchen and cart, the passion for creating exciting dishes knows no bounds.
With a range of culinary options, Vancouver's street food culture is diverse, offering everything from traditional handcarts to creatively transformed ice-cream vans. Among the notable vendors is Fresh Local Wild, providing a dynamic and immersive dining affair with their steaming and roasting gin palace on wheels.
Paul invites me to waddle back to my bike. A 10-minute puff later and we're at Cartel Taco (carteltaco.ca), where silk-soft Mexican tortillas are stuffed with Korean bulgogi beef and crunchy kimchi, the garlic and chilli-spiked Korean sauerkraut. I'm stuffed, too, but not so much that I can't pedal to Re-Up (reupbbq.com) for a round of southern-style pulled pork and beef brisket sandwiches. I let Paul finish them. Just the sort of man I am.
On the meandering way down to the mini ferry across False Creek to Granville Island, I sample the chicken karaage and pork slider at Roaming Dragon (roamingdragon.com), bonzai prawns at Feastro, the Rolling Bistro (feastro.ca), and Pepto-Bismol from the Safeway pharmacy.
Paul was right. Vancouver's food carts are exciting and easily as good as any, anywhere. They show that when a switched-on city council comes together with its people in a sensible, intelligent scheme, the result is the democratisation of quality food and a massive turn-on. I'm not just talking about Love Meat here.
Air Transat (020-7616 9187, airtransat.co.uk) has returns from Gatwick to Vancouver from around £440. The Granville Island Hotel (+1 604 683 7373, granvilleislandhotel.com) has doubles from around £140 B&B. For other places to stay see Tourism British Columbia (britishcolumbia.travel). Simon's Bike Shop (+1 604 602 1181, simonsbikeshop.com) hires bikes from £4.50 an hour, £15 a day. For further information, see vancouverstreeteats.ca or download the free Street Food Vancouver app at streetfoodapp.com. Paul Done can often be found holding court at The New Oxford, 1144 Homer Street (+1 604 609 0901, donnellygroup.ca)